madcity girl

Fromagination is a specialty market on the capitol square that sells artisanal cheeses and “perfect companions.” A stroll though the quaint, yet perfectly merchandised store, yields an other-worldly experience—with all the charm of old-world Wisconsin and the culinary luxuries of modern times. Certainly the focus of the store is the artisanal cheeses (expertly sourced from Wisconsin and all over the world), which are prominently displayed in large glass cases that run the length of the store. But more than anything else, I’m always drawn in by the “companions,” such as French macaroons, Quince and Apple preserves, Potter’s Crackers, Zingerman’s baked goods, and Dean & Deluca sauces, oils, and spices. It’s truly a foodie paradise.

Which is all to say that I was very excited to learn that Fromagination hosts communal “farmhouse” fondue lunches during the months of January and February. Isthmus food-writer Linda Falkenstein ranked the lunch as “the best thing [she] ate all year in 2009.” She described the experience as a “cheerful, sumptuous, intoxicating February picnic.” So of course, I had to try it myself. With my friend Lauren, we booked our reservation for a Wednesday in late-February and waited patiently for our chance to dip in.

Our seating was at 11am yesterday. Upon arrival, the warm store instantly provided a nice sanctuary from the blustery winter weather. After milling around the store for a few minutes, we eventually took seats with ten other dining companions. Lauren and I sat at the end of the table and shared a pot with two other women, who told us they worked at a local cheese producer. One of the Fromagination employees offered a pour of white wine, which we gladly accepted. After that, our host (the cheese buyer) explained the history and traditions behind Swiss fondue. Then lunch was served. The menu featured Roth Kase alpine-style fondue, a signature salad, Neuske’s smoked summer sausage, fingerling potatoes, roasted carrots, French cornichons, and freshly baked bread cubes for dipping. Dessert included two small chocolate chip cookies and hot spiced almonds. To say I was in foodie heaven would be an understatement.

I found the video below from a diner (Lindsay from 77square) who attended last week’s fondue lunch. Although it’s a short video, I think it helps provide a glimpse of the dining experience and atmosphere.

Words can’t do justice to the fondue lunch—every part of the meal was perfectly executed. At the meal’s conclusion, I was adequately stuffed and undeniably content. My only complaints were that we were not served Kirsh at the end of the meal (there were glasses on the table, but we were never offered a pour). Also, Lauren and I were a little surprised to realize that the glass of wine we had each accepted at the beginning of the meal had resulted in a $6 charge (in addition to the $22 lunch). I think it’s fine to charge extra for a glass of wine, but only if you make that clear to your diners from the beginning. The meal would have been perfect if not for those two hiccups. But I refuse to let them leave a sour taste in my mouth—nope, all that is left is the memory of a magical winter fondue feast.