Category: Restaurant Reviews


Fromagination Fondue Lunch

February 25th, 2010 — 8:43am

fondue020409bFromagination is a specialty market on the capitol square that sells artisanal cheeses and “perfect companions.” A stroll though the quaint, yet perfectly merchandised store, yields an other-worldly experience—with all the charm of old-world Wisconsin and the culinary luxuries of modern times. Certainly the focus of the store is the artisanal cheeses (expertly sourced from Wisconsin and all over the world), which are prominently displayed in large glass cases that run the length of the store. But more than anything else, I’m always drawn in by the “companions,” such as French macaroons, Quince and Apple preserves, Potter’s Crackers, Zingerman’s baked goods, and Dean & Deluca sauces, oils, and spices. It’s truly a foodie paradise.

Which is all to say that I was very excited to learn that Fromagination hosts communal “farmhouse” fondue lunches during the months of January and February. Isthmus food-writer Linda Falkenstein ranked the lunch as “the best thing [she] ate all year in 2009.” She described the experience as a “cheerful, sumptuous, intoxicating February picnic.” So of course, I had to try it myself. With my friend Lauren, we booked our reservation for a Wednesday in late-February and waited patiently for our chance to dip in.

Our seating was at 11am yesterday. Upon arrival, the warm store instantly provided a nice sanctuary from the blustery winter weather. After milling around the store for a few minutes, we eventually took seats with ten other dining companions. Lauren and I sat at the end of the table and shared a pot with two other women, who told us they worked at a local cheese producer. One of the Fromagination employees offered a pour of white wine, which we gladly accepted. After that, our host (the cheese buyer) explained the history and traditions behind Swiss fondue. Then lunch was served. The menu featured Roth Kase alpine-style fondue, a signature salad, Neuske’s smoked summer sausage, fingerling potatoes, roasted carrots, French cornichons, and freshly baked bread cubes for dipping. Dessert included two small chocolate chip cookies and hot spiced almonds. To say I was in foodie heaven would be an understatement.

I found the video below from a diner (Lindsay from 77square) who attended last week’s fondue lunch. Although it’s a short video, I think it helps provide a glimpse of the dining experience and atmosphere.

Words can’t do justice to the fondue lunch—every part of the meal was perfectly executed. At the meal’s conclusion, I was adequately stuffed and undeniably content. My only complaints were that we were not served Kirsh at the end of the meal (there were glasses on the table, but we were never offered a pour). Also, Lauren and I were a little surprised to realize that the glass of wine we had each accepted at the beginning of the meal had resulted in a $6 charge (in addition to the $22 lunch). I think it’s fine to charge extra for a glass of wine, but only if you make that clear to your diners from the beginning. The meal would have been perfect if not for those two hiccups. But I refuse to let them leave a sour taste in my mouth—nope, all that is left is the memory of a magical winter fondue feast.

2 comments » | Madtown Lovin', Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Week Reviews

January 31st, 2010 — 12:02pm

rww10Twice a year, more than 30 Madison restaurants open their doors to the masses for Restaurant Week, during which each offer a $25 three-course prix-fixed menu—with three options to chose from for each course. In recent years, my Restaurant Week outings have taken me to several of Madison’s finest—Fresco, Blue Marlin, Lombardino’s, Inka Heritage, and Harvest. It’s hands down the most affordable way to sample Madison’s best restaurants. Although some of the restaurants offer slightly smaller portions during the event, a similar meal would likely cost three to four times as much any other night. Espeically at some of the finest restaurants.

The winter Restaurant Week (usually the last week in January) is appropriately themed “Go Stir Crazy.” Because that’s what Wisconsintes have become by this time of the year—stir crazy. You may have guessed that it doesn’t take much to motivate me to get out for a night of fine dining with friends. In fact, if I could find friends to go out every single night of Restaurant Week, I most certainly would. In the end, I was able to convince a few friends to join me for two separate outings.l-etoile

My first Restaurant Week meal was dinner at L’Etoile on Tuesday night. L’Etoile is arguably Madison’s finest restaurant. Established in 1976 by Chef Odessa Piper, and now led by Tory and Traci Miller, the restaurant’s menu is inspired by the small sustainable farms and artisan producers of the Midwest. I made reservations for a few friends and I several weeks in advance. By the time Restaurnat Week rolled around, L’Etoile was booked solid for the entire week. Reservation=score.

Tuesday was actually my first ever dining experience at L’Etoile. I was very anxious to experience it, especially since hearing the news that L’Etoile will expland and relocate later this year. I must say, my dining experiece at L’Etoile was everything I had hoped for. The food, service, and atmosphere were all top notch. I chose the following options from the Restaurant Week menu:

Appetizer: Willow Creek Farm Pork Mulligatawny Soup with mint yogurt
Entree: Willow Creek Farm Pork Saltimbocca with creamy polenta, snug haven spinach, and caper brown butter sauce
Dessert: Cordillera Dark Chocolate Cake with warm chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream

Luckily, my friends and I chose different options and were all willing to share, which allowed me to sample nearly all of the menu offerings. What I loved about all of the dishes were the freshness of all ingredients and the complexity, yet subtleness of flavors. Going into the experience, I was a little worried that L’Etoile would be a bit too hoity-toity for my tastes. Certainly there were elements of that, evidenced by one particularly robotic server, but overall I found the food and service to be unexpectedly unpretentious. Which is why I’m now especially excited for L’Etoile’s new concept, which will make the restaurant accessible to more people—both in terms of space and price.

862479430_3691f3591fMy second dining experience was for lunch at Johnny Delmonico’s on Thursday. My friend Lauren suggested that we check it out. I’ll admit, I was a little hesitant at first. Several years ago, just after I graduated from college, my family and I had dinner at Johnny Delmonico’s. My roommates had given it rave reviews. It was probably the most disappointing dining experiences I’ve had in Madison. My dad’s steak was overdone, and the risotto that my mom and I both ordered was unedible. But that was several years ago, so I figured I’d give it another shot. I chose the following options from the Restaurant Week menu:

Appetizer: Fried Calamari with sweet chili glaze
Entree: Chinese Chicken Salad with hoisin vinaigrette
Dessert: Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream

I’d say my experience at Delmonico’s was better than the last, but still pretty average. The service was decent, but the food was unremarkable. What I did enjoy was the sweet chili glaze on the fried calamari and the chocolate frosting on my cake. But the Chinese Chicken Salad was entirely too salty—it was just bathed in soy sauce.

That’s the best part of Restaurant Week—the experience helps you decide which restaurants you want to go back to for more. I think it’s safe to assume I’ll be heading back to L’Etoie. Sooner rather than later, I hope.

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Island Lava Java

October 9th, 2009 — 7:25pm

100_1774To say that I am obsessed with Island Lava Java would be an understatement. During the course of my four days on the island, I’ve eaten at Lava Java four times. The very popular Kona dining spot offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The food is super fresh, and everything I’ve ordered has been delicious. And in the days leading up to a big race, it’s nice to have somewhere to go where the food is healthy and always good.

In my opinion, the breakfast offerings are most impressive. Everything from Kona coffee to pancakes with coconuts, macadamia nuts, and bananas, topped with buttermilk coconut syrup. There’s also an amazing bakery selection with mouthwatering scones, muffins, cookies, and the biggest cinnamon rolls I’ve ever seen (and have been salivating over all week). Without a doubt, I will be back on Sunday morning after the race to get my fill of gooey cinnamon rolls. menu

Entertainingly, Lava Java also seems to be the place to “see and be seen” among the triathlon community that has literally taken over Kona. Triathletes flock to Lava Java all day for good eats, smoothies, and some good ‘ol sizing up the competition. I’ve seen countless professional triathletes in line or sitting at tables on the outdoor patio.

Lava Java also offers “triathlete specials” for the week—many of which are named for well-known professional triathletes, like Bree Wee, Chris McDonald, and Chris Lieto. On Wednesday, I enjoyed the Bree Brulee—oatmeal layered with plain yogurt and sliced bananas, then topped with caramelized brown sugar brulee. Served with a cup of fresh fruit. See? Now you know what I’m ‘talkin about!

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Dinner at Cafe Hollander

August 10th, 2009 — 2:07pm

home-002

Early last week, I visited my parents to enjoy a day of shopping with my mom and an early birthday dinner at Cafe Hollander, the newest kid on the block in Tosa Village on Milwaukee’s West Side. I’m always game for new dining experiences. Following is my take on Cafe Hollander.  

Smack in the middle of Tosa village, the Belgian-themed restaurant is housed in an airy, three-story brick building with hardwood floors, a striking bar that features dozens of unique brews on tap, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Menomonee River, as well as various wall hangings that suggest a religious devotion to all things cycling. Cafe Hollander also features a great outdoor patio overlooking the Menomonee River. The river-side setting and colorful table-top umbrellas create a European towncenter atmosphere—all in all, a wonderful and uniquely vibrant addition to the increasingly-hip village. home-001

The menu is relatively simple—mostly appetizers, sandwiches, salads, and a half-dozen-or-so entrees (appetizers range from $4-11, sandwiches are all priced around $10, and entrees range from $11-19). Cafe Hollander’s most unique menu offerings include breakfast options that are served all-day, as well as more than a dozen “dipping sauces,” which I assume are meant to accompany the popular frites that are served as an appetizer (in a cone), as well as a side for all sandwiches.

When we arrived, the outdoor patio was packed. Although the restaurant  just opened in June, Cafe Hollander’s popular East Side location has already made a name for itself in the Milwaukee area. Since it was such a gorgeous evening, we decided to have a drink at the bar and wait for an outdoor table to become available. I was impressed with the variety and sheer number of beer options on tap—lots of great beers  from Belgium and the Netherlands in particular.

Once we were seated (relatively quickly, actually, by way of a very loud, voice-activated beeper), we ordered the spicy calamari (hand-cut calamari, lightly breaded and fried with red peppers, fresh jalapenos, carrots and pepperoncini. Served with srirachamayonnaise).  It was pretty good, but too spicy for my tastes. Disappointingly, we had very little time to enjoy the appetizer, as our entrees came out just minutes afterwards.

For an entree, I chose the BBQ Pulled Chicken Sandwich (Pulled baked chicken breast, tossed in BBQ sauce and served on a toasted brioche bun, with a side of cole slaw). My dad chose the Grilled Ahi Tuna sandwich, and my mom opted for the Famous Trocadero Brie, Tomato, and Basil Sandwich. The presentation for all was wonderful—great portions, color contrast, and arrangements—but certainly the bite was lacking punch. In other words, the food was good, but not great.

Cafe Hollander is a great place to gather with friends for beers and small plates (I’m thinking excellent happy hour option). The atmosphere, especially the patio during the warmer months, is certainly Cafe Hollander’s best attribute. I also very much appreciate the attention to cycling (it appears as though the restaurant sponsors a team and perhaps a few races—so definitely props for that). The food, however, still needs work. There’s much promise, but the dishes need more flavor and pizazz.

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Dinner at Harvest Tonight

July 30th, 2009 — 12:18pm

1283228414851563391Tonight I have reservations with a few friends for dinner at Harvest as part of Madison’s Restaurant Week—a six-day foodie celebration during which 30 local restaurants offer a three-course prix fixe meal ($25/person).

With it’s evolving menu and emphasis on local, organic, and seasonal ingredients, not to mention it’s grand location on the capitol square, Harvest is consistently named one of the best restaurants in the country. Recently, it was named by Organic Style magazine as one of the top 20 restaurants in America, and it was also named by Gourmet Magazine as one of America’s top Farm-to-Table restaurants.

During my 8+ years living in Madison, I have amazingly not yet dined there—which is seriously an embarrassment since I consider myself  a studied foodie and faithful Madisodian. Some of you may be thinking…wait, I thought you have had dinner at Harvest. Nope. Twice now I either had or thought I had reservations at Harvest, to no avail. The first time, my best friend threw me a surprise birthday party instead (the reservation at Harvest was merely the set-up to fool me).  And the second time, during this past winter, the same friend and I had real reservations, and ended up canceling them due to a disagreement (which certainly would have made for an uncomfortable dining experience at Harvest…and the only kind of discomfort I want to experience there is the variety in which my belly is stuffed with too much good food).

So tonight’s the night. I’ve been studying my options and am leaning towards the following picks: zucchini and almond soup, roast breast of chicken with fennel and olives, and the chocolate cake and caramel sauce. Wish me luck!

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Carrot Cake Bake-off

March 23rd, 2009 — 1:14pm

So much catching up to do…

Two weekends ago, my dad and I faced off in a carrot cake bake-off. After each touted a superior recipe, we decided it was time to go head-to-head to settle the score. My dad chose his favorite carrot cake recipe—one that was handed down to him from his mother, my grandma K. It’s a simple recipe, with a dusting of powdered sugar on top instead of a more traditional cream cheese frosting. Following is the picture and recipe.home-0022

1-1/2 C vegetable oil
2 C sugar (1 brown and 1 white)
3 C all purpose flour
4 eggs
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp allspice
2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp baking soda
1/2 C milk
1/2 tsp salt
2 C grated carrots (about 8 large)
1 C nuts (optional - walnuts or pecans)

Mix wet ingredients with dry. Bake ( 350 degrees) in form pan for about one hour or until cake is done.

On the other hand, I chose a recipe for carrot cake from Epicurious.com that is yet to fail me. It’s a three-tiered cake covered with a creamy cream cheese frosting that was originally featured in Bon Appetit, October 1994. home-010

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Now there are no losers when it comes to carrot cake—but for the record, my cake did prove superior. Sorry, grandma. And how could it not with an advantage like cream cheese frosting? 

It was also great to enjoy a week’s worth of carrot cake leftovers…

Comment » | Family Fun, Kristin's Kitchen, Restaurant Reviews

Three Brothers Bring Old World Charm

January 4th, 2009 — 11:09am

On Tuesday night, my brother and I went out for a traditional Serbian dinner at Three Brothers in Milwaukee. The restaurant is a Milwaukee favorite and includes a storied history. According to proprietor Branko Radiecevich, now in his 80’s, “My father bought the tavern in 1950. He chose the name Three Brothers in anticipation of his three sons coming to the United States. Alexander, Milutin, and I escaped Yugoslavia in 1956. It was a real reunion; I had not seen my father for fourteen years, when we were separated in a Nazi concentration camp.”

 

Three Brothers, which once served as a corner tavern operated by the Schlitz Brewing Company, features an array of old Schlitz memorabilia, mismatched china, a marble bar that runs the length of the restaurant, and an overall unpretentious, warm, and charming atmosphere.

 

Kelly and I started with the lemon and wine marinated rice-stuffed grape leaves, and the Serbian Salad, a delicious array of tomatoes, green peppers, and onions, sprinkled with grated Bryndza, a soft goat milk cheese. For an entrée, we shared the meat burek, a golden-brown, plate-sized pastry of light buttery phyllo dough layered with ground beef, which typically takes 45 minutes to prepare. For dessert, we shared a warm plate of cherry crepes.

 

Although this was my first visit to Three Brothers, it certainly won’t be my last. I loved the delicious simplicity and old world charm. Definitely one of my new favorites.

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Feeding My Inner Foodie

December 19th, 2008 — 2:27pm

My dining adventures in Chicago were superb. I visited some classic favorites, and explored new territory as well. My inner foodie was very pleased.

Starting with a classic favorite, I enjoyed a record-breaking six meals at Fox and Obel Café (401 E. Illinois Street), which covered the span of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. My favorites are still the breakfast offerings, specifically the French Toast, Applewood-Smoked Bacon, and Healthy Start Parfait (layers of milk an honey granola, vanilla yogurt, and seasonal berries). I also love any and all of the baked goods.

Also along the lines of breakfast, my friend Seif (Katie) introduced me to a new restaurant, The Bongo Room (1152 S Wabash Ave.), which specializes in creative French toast and pancakes. The strategy, as Seif explained it to me, is to order multiple items on the menu, but as half orders. That way you can sample as many different pancakes as possible. So Seif and I essentially created a pancake/french toast flight, and enjoyed four varieties, including the Chocolate Tower French Toast (bittersweet chocolate chunk bread stuffed with maple mascarpone, banana crème brulee sauce, bananas and shaved chocolate). It was quite hilarious to see all of the decadent varieties of pancakes spread across the table for just the two of us. It was sheer gluttony, and I loved every moment.

Next up was another Seif recommendation, Tango Sur (3763 N. Southport), which is where I enjoyed dinner on Monday with Seif, Karen, my friend Mel from college, and my colleague Cydney, and her boyfriend Ben. I loved this place, definitely now among my Chicago favorites. It’s essentially an Argentinian BYOB steak house with a very intimate atmosphere and great prices. We started out with appetizers, sampling the four varieties of Empanadas, as well as the Provoleta (Argentina provolone cheese cooked on the grill with olive oil and roasted red pepper). Seif and I then split the El Filet as an entrée (range grown filet mignon cooked on the grill then topped with a red onion wine sauce and accompanied with spinach mashed potatoes.) We also took advantage of the BYOB, with two bottles of red wine with dinner. I’m embarassed to admit I was a tiny bit hung over on Tuesday!

My next restaurant adventure was to The Publican (837 W. Fulton Market), which recently opened in October to much hype (it’s the latest venture from the team who opened Avec and Blackbird). The menu is unique and eclectic, and primarily highlights seafood and heirloom pork, as well as an incredible beer list and communal dining. Karen, her sister Sue, and I shared three dishes—the mussels, the heirloom apple salad, and a dish with chicken, sausage, and frites. The heirloom salad stood out most for me. It was very good. The rest was good, but not great. The service was very good, and the bathrooms are also cool. But I’d still pick Avec over The Publican any day.

And my final culinary adventure in Chicago was to Sweet Mandy B’s (1208 W. Webster Ave.), which features “old fashioned” homemade cakes, cookies, cupcakes, and more. I ordered two cookies and the “Magic” bar. I’m such a sucker for good bakeries. They just draw me in with their creamy frostings, cheery pleasantries, and sugar.

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Chicago Dining Adventure Pics

December 19th, 2008 — 2:21pm
The Bongo Room
Empanadas at Tango Sur
Mussels at The Publican

Sweet Mandy B’s

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Snow Day in Chicago

December 19th, 2008 — 7:06am

These are a few pictures I took on Tuesday night in Chicago. As you can probably tell, we were in the midst of a bit of a snow storm. Tuesday is also the night we had tickets to see Dirty Dancing at the Cadillac Theatre and were planning to drive back to Madison afterwards. Instead, we declared a snow day and booked our hotel room for another night and called into work to extend our vacation yet another day. The evening was made much more enjoyable knowing we weren’t going to have to plow through the snow back to Madison at midnight. The next day, Karen and I enjoyed a final run through the city, breakfast at Fox and Obel, and a shopping excursion to Lincoln Park.

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